ROCK FAQ


FAQ
Your climbing questions answered 


WARNING
This website is not a replacement for a rock climbing course with a trained professional. Rock climbing is inherently dangerous, always assume your own risk when climbing outdoors and come prepared with the necessary skills. 


What is "climbing access"?

Climbing access is a term used to describe whether or not rock climbing is permitted at a climbing area. For example, if rock climbing is not allowed then there is no permitted "climbing access". If access is sensitive, there are probably specific rules/regulations/season closures or considerations. Gaining approved climbing access is generally due to the hard work of local access groups, guides and volunteers. It is important to become a member of your local access coalition. "Strength in numbers" is key when fighting to keep cliff access. Check out this link for access groups near you: http://www.rockrespect.ca/p/useful-links.html 

In order to keep these cliffs open, it is crucial that you be on your best behaviour at all times.


There are quick draws left on a climb, can I take them?

If an entire climb has quick draws hanging on it, chances are that someone is "projecting" the climb and will return to get their draws (and hopefully a send!). Do not take their gear! You can climb the route though. If there are one or two carabiners/quick draws left on a bolt or a piece of trad gear in a crack, then chances are that the climber had to "bail" off the climb (see question below). You can ask around or keep this gear (called "booty"), but you take on obvious risks using gear that you do not know the history of, as it may of been dropped/old/stored improperly. Find out if it is permitted to leave quick draws on a climb at the area you plan to climb at.


I can't make it to the top of a climb, how do I get my gear back?

We've all been there, you get in over your head and can't make it to the top. You need to be prepared to potentially leave gear behind. Learn the safest methods and options to "bail" off a climb, from a guide that teaches sport climbing courses. Links to Canadian guiding companies here: http://www.rockrespect.ca/p/useful-links.html


What staples should I always have in my climbing pack, outdoors?

When climbing outdoors, it is best to be prepared for everything: weather, hard long hikes, a physical day in the elements, accidents, hiking out in the dark, etc. Listed below are some key staples to keep in your climbing pack.

- Climbing necessities (harness, helmet, belay device, etc.)
- Headlamp
- Packable down/synthetic jacket
- Hiking shoes
- Water (1L minimum)
- High energy snacks
- Sun protection (sunglasses, sunscreen, hat, sun shirt)
- Rain coat
- FA kit (know where the closest hospital is)
- Cell phone (there may not be service!)
- Multi-tool (knife)
- Climbing tape


How do I know if a bolt is safe?

A common expansion bolt
https://francishaden.wordpress.com/development/

Before climbing outside, you should educate yourself about bolts. If you don't like the looks of a bolt, do not trust it! If the hanger is loose or spinning ("hanger" is the part of the bolt that you clip to, see above), this can be fixed by hand tightening the nut or by using an adjustable wrench. Do not over tighten the bolt! If the actual bolt itself is wiggling in the hole, do not trust it. Never assume that all bolts outdoors are safe for climbing, always assume your own risk.

http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/bomberbolts.htm


https://www.accessfund.org/learn/for-advocates/managing-fixed-anchors/bolt-basics-what-every-climber-should-know


https://francishaden.wordpress.com/development/ 


www.badbolts.com




Who bolts the climbs?

These climbs exist because of the extremely hard work of a generous rock climber. Some areas require bolting permits and special permission to bolt, obey these rules or you could risk permanent closure of the cliff. Some areas are permanently closed to any further route development, obey these regulations and set a good example. Bolting a climb requires an extremely high level of knowledge and experience, as well as physical strength, time and money. Spare a thought for all of the time and money that others have put into developing a route before you complain about the line.


Who maintains the bolts?

Most of the time the same folks that bolt the routes also help maintain them. Local access coalitions or bolt funds sometimes give bolts to volunteers willing to replace old bolts. Local guiding companies also help maintain bolts and monitor cliff safety. Donate to local bolt funds or access coalitions and report bad bolts to local access coalitions, guides or bolt funds. There unfortunately is no current sole organization for dealing with bolting or access in Canada. The US has a website called www.badbolts.com. Alberta has TABVAR that deals with all bolt replacements in Alberta. 



Are outdoor climbs bolted like the gym?

NO! Never expect that the bolts outside will be close together, safe, or exactly where you want them to be. Outdoor sport climbs can be bolted in a variety of styles depending on the person who bolted it or sometimes even the year it was put up. Often the older the route, the further apart the bolts could be as old climbs were often put up on lead (ground up), or with traditional gear placements between the bolts. Newer routes tend to be better bolted, but again it may depend on the knowledge of whoever bolted it, or the rock quality/bolting situation the developer had to face. Remember to regularly assess the risk as you progress upwards and be aware of the length of fall you face when lead climbing and the hazards around you like ledges/ground. 



The first bolt is really high, how do I clip it without getting hurt?

You will see this a lot outside, route developers are sometimes bolting routes with the first bolt rather high, assuming that climbers use a "stick-clip" to pre clip the first bolt. A stick-clip is an extendable pole that you can use to pre-clip the first bolt with your quick draw and rope, so you don't risk ground fall. You can also make a stick-clip out of a stick! Lots of ways to do it, ask a climber at the gym, or google it.






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